Gluing-in the round pieces of foam is not a good idea as many adhesives won’t adhere to the noodle material and again, you’ll want to remove the added floatation on a regular basis. Situated up under the deck and hull areas, the closed-cell foam will be a press-fit to make it easier to install or remove the noodles for boat-servicing duties. To end up with an overturned hull that’s sitting almost flat and level on the water’s surface, your goal will be to insert sections of the pool noodle foam all around the boat’s interior sides and transom spaces. As a precaution whenever you’re working with these tools, it’s best to keep the kids and pets away from the work area. For smaller cuts and for making notches in the foam, a regular hobby knife or a single-edge razor blade will work well as long as their cutting edges are fresh and sharp. These retractable blade knives have many uses and since their blades can extend up to three inches, they can make a single, clean slice through most pool noodles. Having done several projects that included the use of pool noodles, the best cutting and shaping tool I’ve found for this material is what’s called a “snap-blade” knife. Then you can custom fit the foam using a cutting tool that you may already have in your kitchen’s junk drawer. Matching the right size noodle for your boat’s floatation upgrade will only demand a tape measure to check the hull’s available noodle space. Sold in a multitude of stores, these foam floats come in different diameters and can either be solid or have a center hole in their makeup. They are tough enough to hold up inside any kind of powered, scale or sail hull in your fleet. Capable of holding an incredible amount of weight on top of the water, these brightly-colored noodles are also perfectly suited as RC boat floatation. The extra buoyancy material that many boaters install in their hulls is nothing more than what’s called a “pool noodle”, which is a long, round section of closed-cell foam normally used to keep swimmers afloat in the water. However, it is possible to add some additional, low-cost buoyancy to the hull and greatly improve your chances of surviving a flip with almost no water ending up inside the boat. In most cases, the hull will stay afloat due to the presence of some floatation material in the forward bow section of the boat. Nobody likes to think about the possibility of seeing their RC boat sitting inverted out on the water, but there will be a time when you’ll have to deal with a flipped-over marinecraft.
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